Theory And Principles Of Poultry Housing

Poultry Housing
Poultry housing is used by the birds for roosting, laying, and shelter. The welfare of the birds is entirely in your hands and certain principles should therefore be observed.

Space
Floor area should be a minumum of 1 square foot (0.1 sq m) per bird (standard size chickens) or 8" square (20cm square) for bantams. If you can give them more space so much the better. Keep in mind the birds will be spending time in the henhouse sheltering from the rain and wind as well as sleeping at night. Perches should a minumum of 9" (23cm) apart for large fowl and 6" (15cm) apart for bantams.

Ventilation
Correct ventilation is vital to prevent the build-up of bacteria and condensation. To ensure there are no draughts ventalation should be located on the front wall near the roof. It is more difficult keeping the house cool than warm.

Windows
Windows to should be located in the front wall and hindged at the bottom, to allow for adjusting the ventilation. If covered in one inch square welded wire mesh most predators will be deterred.

Window area should be plentiful enough to admit ample lite. The house can then be sited with its back to the wind to prevent drafts. Longere hours of light increases egg production, fourteen hours of light being the optimum. If you are adding artificial lighting it should timed to come on in the early morning, allowing the birds natural twilight to choose their roost.

Materials
Timber should be substantial for the frame and can then be clad with tongue and groove or plyboard povided the seams are sealed. If the timber is pressure treated by it will last many years without rotting. The roof needs to be sloping to allow rain to run off. Plywood can be used if it is shingled. Another option for roofing is steel sheeting.

Square mesh is best used on the window and ventilation reas as it is fox proof.

Nestboxes
Hens like to lay their eggs in secret places so if you want them to use the nest boxs you must take care to locate them in a dark private place. Often hanging a curtain in front of the nest boxs will help with the privacy issue. Size for large fowl is up to 12" (30cm) square or 8" (20cm) square for bantams with one nest box per four hens.

Communal nest boxes with no partitions are useful as sometimes all the hens choose just one nestbox and queue up or all pile in together which is when eggs get broken.

Outside access for you to collect the eggs is a real time saver. Litter in the nestboxes can be wood shavings (not ceder) or straw (not hay due to moulds).

Perches
Even for bantams, perches should be broad - 2" (5cm). Square, with the top edges rounded is ideal. They should be the correct height for the species and breed so they can get on them easily and have room to stand up. See above for spacing but allow 12" (30cm) between perches if more than one tier is used. Make sure they are higher than the nestboxs otherwise the hens may roost in the nestbox. If you can provide a droppings board, which can be removed easily for cleaning, under the perches it will help keep the floor of the house cleaner. Hens do two thirds of their droppings at night. You can also check the droppings for colour and consistency (as a guide to health) more easily.

Security
The house must provide protection from vermin such as fox, racoon, rats and mice. One inch (2.5cm) welded square mesh over the ventilation areas will help keep out all but the smallest of vermin. You may also need to be able to padlock the house against two-legged vermin.

Litter
Wood shavings for livestock is the cleanest and best. Avoid ceder shavings as they may be toxic in confined areas. Straw may be cheaper but check that it is fresh and clean and not mouldy, or contaminated by vermin or cats. Do not use hay due to harmful mould spores which will give the hens breathing problems. Litter is used on the floor, in the nestboxes and on the droppings board.

Cleaning
Weekly cleaning is best, replacing litter in all areas. There are discinfectants available which are not toxic to the birds and will destroy many if not all of the bacteria and viruses harmful to poultry. Check with your local poultry suppliers to find out what is available in your area.

Buy or make?
If housing is bought from a reputable manufacturer and meets all the basic principles then that may be the quickest and easiest method of housing your birds. If you wish to make housing yourself, keep to the basic principles and remember not to make it heavy as you may want to move it either regularly or at some stage if it is not permanent. Remember to make the access as easy as possible for you to get in to clean, catch, or collect eggs. Occasionally, second-hand housing becomes available. Beware of disease, rotten timber, and inability to transport in sectional form.

Types of housing:
Movable pens are good as the birds get fresh ground regularly. Some have wheels which makes moving them easy for anyone. Triangular arks were developed to prevent sheep jumping on housing in the days when different stock was kept together. The shape of an ark can damage the comb of a cockerel. A disadvantage of movable pens or fold units is the limit on the size and therefore the number of birds kept in each one.

Static or Free Range housing needs to be moved occasionally in order to keep the ground clean around the house, but the hens are allowed to roam freely or contained within a fenced-off area. Tall thin houses are unstable in windy areas, so go for something low and broad based. If a sliding or hinged roof is incorporated there is no need to have the house high enough for you to stand up in.

It may be useful to have a free range house with a solid floor raised off the ground for about 8" (20cm). This discourages rats and other vermin from hiding under the house and can make an extra shelter or dusting area for the birds. They are liable to lay under the house if their nestboxes are not adequate. When using movable pens and moving them on a daily basis it is useful to have feeders and drinkers attached to the unit so it all comes with the unit without having to take the equipment out and put it all back again.

If you already have a stone or brick building it can be adapted by following the above principles. Indeed, many poultry keepers have permanent poultry runs which cannot be moved, and others have to incorporate their poultry into the garden. You can adapt poultry housing to suit your conditions, space, and chosen breed but it is always important to make the welfare of the birds the prime consideration.

When choosing poultry housing go for the basic principles but remember ease of access - if a job is easy to do it is much more likely to get done.