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A logical approach is to visit existing facilities in
climates similar to your own and gather information on what works best.
Naturally, the type of housing depends on climate. Before construction, check
zoning laws, electricity and water sources and truck accesses. Site selection is
important. Select a site with good drainage, sufficient space for isolation and
freedom from excessive winds. Remember, the structure must protect the rabbits
against predators and excessive temperature changes.
CAGES:
Modern caging is one of the major breakthroughs in rabbit raising
Traditional cage sizes for intermediate breeds are 30 inches by 30 inches for
does and 24 inches by 30 inches for bucks. Compact breeds will require cages 1/3
smaller and dwarf breeds about half the size. Giant breeds require cages to be
24 inches high rather than the standard 18 inches. These cages are based on
leaving litters with does until eight weeks of age and having food and water
containers inside the cage unlike current practice. Many breeders wean as young
as 28 days and use outside feeders and water bottles, thereby reducing the cage
space requirement. The all-wire cages should be suspended from the ceiling with
wires or chains, making entry difficult for pests. For outside cages, wooden
frames may be made of 2 by 4’s into which the cages may be placed.
Cages for pet rabbits can be simple affairs, but they must be sturdy. Rabbits
have marvelous teeth. They can rapidly destroy wood. Also, wood absorbs smells
which can quickly become offensive. A good cage is made of 1 inch by 2 inch
galvanized wire (usually #16) and 1/2 inch by 1 inch floors. Fiberglass or metal
pans are held in place with a wire sub-floor. Wood shavings, kitty litter or
ground corn cobs work nicely for litter absorption in the bottom pan. A metal
shield about 2 inches high around the outside of the cage helps deflect rabbit
“spray.” If such shields aren’t available, a visit to a sheet metal shop
might help.
Hardware cloth generally isn’t sturdy enough for
long-term use and can cause sore hocks. The wire
is too light for the stress of a rambunctious rabbit.
Cage arrangements are extremely varied, from single to multi-decked. Again, it
is advisable to visit several operations with different arrangements before
deciding what will work best for you. Every system has advantages and
disadvantages; these should be carefully considered before making a final
choice.
Cages may be purchased commercially or constructed by an individual. Suggested
cage dimensions, for intermediate breeds, are:
Doe Cages - 30 inches by 30 inches by 18 inches.
Buck Cages - 24 inches by 30 inches by 18 inches.
Growing Cages - 30 inches by 30 inches by 18 inches – capacity
10 to 15 fryers to market. In extremely hot weather place only 10 to 12 fryers
per cage.
Isolation Cages - 24 inches by 30 inches by 18 inches - Use for isolating sick or newly purchased animals. Keep
separate from main housing.
Nest Boxes - 12 inches by 18 inches
by 8 inches - made of plywood.
CAGE MATERIAL:
Tops and sides - 1 inch by 2 inch welded wire. You may want to use 1/2
inch by 1 inch “baby-saver” wire on the sides 4 inches high.
Bottoms - 5/8 inches by 1 inch or 1/2 inch by 1 inch welded wire.
Doors - 16 inches by 13 inches latched over 14 inches by 12 inches
opening. Nest boxes come in metal versions with removable bottoms. These can be
purchased from the same places as cages. Many breeders make their own nest boxes
from scrap wood. The front part should be eight to 12 inches wide, depending on
the size of the doe. Holes should be drilled in the bottom for drainage.
SELF-FEEDERS:
There are many types available. The most important factor is that they be low
enough to allow small bunnies to feed. The feeder lip should be no higher than
three to four inches above the floor.
Outside metal feeders are becoming more common. They fill from the outside of
the cage, saving time and inside space. Two types are available. The more common
“J” style that slips through a hole cut in the side wire of the cage, and
the two-part style that doesn’t require a hole cut in the wire. Rabbits are
less able to scratch food out of such feeders. Water bottles are a good
investment as they save time, effort and cage space. Less water is wasted as
there is no splashing.
Experience indicates that automatic watering systems with nipple or
“dew-drop” outlets are worthwhile and should be provided in each cage.
Located 6 inches above the floor, bunnies can use them early. Incorporating a
pressure reducing valve will prevent waste and wet floors. It is advantageous to
use an automotive water proportioner which allows you to add medications and
waterline cleaners to the system.
BUILDINGS:
Converted poultry buildings, garages or utility sheds work well for rabbits. If
the breeder wants, droppings can be allowed to fall to the floor for removal
several times a year. If desired, cages with metal pans can be used and cleaned
weekly.
Plywood roofs can be covered with rolled roofing. Tarps or heavy plastic may be
hung for winter protection. Be sure to have the roof extended far enough over
the edge to provide shade from the sun. Rabbits must be able to get out of the
sun!
Good ventilation is critical for the health and productivity of the rabbits. The
ventilating system should provide eight to 10 air changes per hour, without
subjecting the rabbits to undesirable drafts. This can be accomplished with
windows, adjustable panels and curtains, fans and open-sided buildings. In some
areas of the country, heaters will be necessary during extremely cold weather.
As is the case with many animals, day length influences reproductive activity in
the rabbit. Lighting should be maintained at a constant level for 10 to 14 hours
a day, and be strong enough to maintain reproductive activity.
It is essential that weights be taken periodically in order to accurately
evaluate performances.
Feed and Water
Traditionally,
ceramic crocks have been used to feed and water rabbits. The drawbacks to these
crocks are that they break easily and water and food are contaminated easily by
young bunnies. Always provide plenty of fresh, clean water.
A rabbit will eat approximately 3 to 4 percent of its body weight daily, or
about .64 ounces for each pound the rabbit weighs. A well-formulated and
well-manufactured pellet is the foundation for any good rabbit nutrition
program. The pelleting process enables the manufacturer to combine many
ingredients into one package which provides the most complete nutrition
possible.
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to: Rabbit Production
Health
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