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Note: This post was written in response to an anguished
message from a pet owner who had a very bad experience with
euthanasia; at the same time, they wanted to know what their
possible alternatives might have been. From long experience, I
wrote this article, and Wayne was kind enough to feel it good
enough for his page. -- PA
Ok people...I'm going to be extremely direct here. I am a
long time breeder (20 years) and have done this many, many
times. Although the following may be too graphic for some, I
would NOT list the methods involved unless I were certain that
they were humane!!
********IF YOU ARE SQUEAMISH, PLEASE STOP READING
NOW********
Please note...Injectable euthanasia by a veterinarian does
NOT have to be a bad experience!! A knowledgeable veterinarian
can easily use the cephalic vein in the foreleg, the same as
they would in a cat or dog euthanasia. A chest puncture,
performed correctly, CAN be very humane, but unless performed
well, can be agonizing for the animal as well as the owner. But
I digress.
There are several ways in which a rabbit may be
euthanised (put down humanely):
- Injectable euthanasia solution, performed only by a
veterinarian. A solution containing toxins targeted to brain and
heart is injected directly into the blood vessel, resulting in
painless death very quickly. The solution may also be injected,
with much slower results, into liver, kidney, or abdomen. The
results are final and peaceful. Not suitable for animals for
consumption by any species.
*******
- The following methods may or will result in residual
reflexes causing kicking and trembling.
- If euthanasia is performed correctly, THESE DO NOT
INDICATE SUFFERING OR CONSCIOUSNESS.
- They are a normal part of sudden death; the injectable
euthanasia avoids this by chemical means.
********
- In all of the below methods, PARTICULARLY #5, having an
experienced person teach you, hands-on, precisely how to perform
them is a real help in being able to perform them effectively
and humanely at need.
- Any kit under 3 days of age may be frozen,
HOWEVER...they MUST be stunned first to avoid pain and
suffering. Method #3 is best for this...simply strike the kit's
head sharply against a table edge or counter, and the job is
largely done. Wrap in a paper towel, place in a tightly closed
Ziploc baggie and place in the freezer. Usually freezing is
superfluous to kits put down in this manner, but it is a good
way to make sure death occurs while the kit is unconscious--the
very young kit is difficult to kill humanely in any other
manner. Suitable for feeders (reptiles, raptors, wildlife).
- Shooting. Not everyone may be able to do this, check
your local laws. Place the animal in a small carrier without its
tray or a very small pen ON GRASS OR BARE EARTH WITHOUT ROCKS
nearby. Give it something to eat, a special treat, to ensure the
head stays still. From above and behind, directing the shot
toward the tip of the nose, place the projectile at the junction
of spine and skull. The gun muzzle should be as close as
possible to the rabbit, but no closer than an inch to allow
gasses from the barrel to escape. The projectile passes through
the skull, brainstem, and brain, resulting in immediate death. A
CO2 pistol may be able to efficiently perform this task as well
as a firearm; I prefer a .22 calibre rifle loaded with birdshot,
as this will do maximum damage with minimal danger to people and
objects in the area should things go wrong, i.e., a ricochet.
Suitable for consumption by any species which does not mind the
blood-this method does make a mess.
- Blunt trauma to the skull; This is the old 'whack on
the head' trick, and works with extreme efficacy. Very small or
young rabbits may be held on their backs, one hand on or around
the loin and the other restraining the hindfeet, then RAPIDLY
and HARD, swing them down to meet the angle of the edge of a
table or wall at the join of skull and just behind the ears. If
handled correctly, the animals seem to feel no fear and do not
struggle any more than any rabbit which is held on its back.
- This method causes severing of the spinal cord and massive
trauma to the brain, with the impact causing instantaneous
unconsciousness rapidly followed by death. They may bleed from
the nose or mouth due to the trauma involved. Larger animals may
be held under the left arm (reverse if you are left handed, of
course), facing away from you, with the forelegs held in the
fingers of your left hand and hindquarters tucked up under your
elbow. The rabbit should be comfortable and not struggling.
Gently tip the rabbit's nose downward to allow a clear view of
the area directly behind the ears, where the spine and skull
meet. Using a smooth piece of round 3/8" bar stock (metal rod)
or comparable tool, strike this spot HARD and squarely; I
recommend three HARD blows to ensure death. (You may wish to
practice on a stuffed bun to make sure you don't miss.) Suitable
for consumption, any species.
- This method will usually result in stiffening followed by
kicking for several seconds. However, again, this is residual
electrical activity and does not indicate consciousness. If the
rabbit can blink, YOU MUST IMMEDIATELY REPEAT THE TECHNIQUE, as
it is NOT properly struck. This is NOT what you want to have to
do, hence the practice suggestion above.
- Cervical Dislocation; This is the old twist and crunch
as shown in the ARBA guidebook, and a very good method it is.
What they do not tell or show you is that you really need to be
taught the method by someone who is very proficient at it! The
angle at which the head is held in relation to the spine is
critical, and I DO NOT recommend this method for the novice.
Find someone who has done it and ask them to teach you directly.
Once the lesson is learned, it is easily performed on rabbits of
almost any age or size. For older or larger animals, a fair
amount of upper body and wrist strength is required. Suitable
for consumption, any species; preferred for slaughter of rabbits
for human use.
- CO2 Asphyxiation; Recommended for guinea pigs,
old/weak/small rabbits only. Done properly can be very humane.
In a tightly-sealing ice chest, place a layer of shavings and a
cardboard divider, behind which you will place a good sized
chunk of dry ice. Allow the cooler to fill with the vapour from
the dry ice, then place the rabbit on the shavings and close the
lid. Death should be rapid; DO NOT keep opening the lid to
check, as this will dilute the CO2 concentration and prolong the
process. Allow at least an hour before checking. Stunning the
animal before placing them in the chest will hasten painless
death. UNSUITABLE for human consumption.
IT IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED THAT YOU HAVE SKILL IN AT LEAST
TWO METHODS, so that should one be ineffective, the other is
readily and immediately available to prevent prolonged
suffering.
Now...Here is what you DO NOT DO for euthanasia.
- · DROWNING; Neither humane nor advisable, even for
newborns.
- · SUFFOCATION; Same. The sensations of suffocation are
HIGHLY distressful to the animal. The old form of execution by
hanging killed by breaking the neck rather than by
suffocation-usually.
- · ASPHYXIATION; Car exhaust is a MAJOR no-no. Painful,
hot, and full of other gases that cause massive damage, anxiety,
fear, and pain.
- · CHEMICALS; Ether, chloroform, starter fluid, propane,
natural gas.... all very dangerous to handle and painful for the
animal, no matter how briefly.
- · POISONING; (Yes there are idiots who have tried this)
Just don't. Rat and mouse poisons are NOT a humane euthanasia.
Neither are antifreeze, ant poison, and so forth.
- · FREEZING; Not humane unless the animal is very young and
has been stunned, as described above.
- · DECAPITATION; Not considered humane as awareness
continues very briefly *we think*...no rabbit has come back to
tell us! :)* after the head is severed.
Ok, hope no one is terminally offended. This is simply my
own view on rabbits and euthanasia.
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